Wednesday 8 April, 2015

Today we had our last breakfast at the Hotel Royal St. Honore. Then we did all the packing which went smoothly for once. We strolled down to W.H.Smith's by the Tuileries to buy a Guardian newspaper to read on the train. Then we went back to check out.

We caught the number 1 tram to Gare de Lyon and found the platforms for the TGV. I bought a coffee and a blueberry muffin while we waited. The train came in on time and we found our seats in coach 15. We had a very smooth journey back to Zurich, via Dijon, Mulhouse and Basel. We did all the puzzles in the paper and I read my new Joanna Trollope book.

At Zurich we caught the fast train to Thalwil and then got the bus. We were home before 5pm. It was very sunny and warm in Thalwil. I imported all my holiday photos which are nice to look back on.

Tuesday 7 April

We got up soon after 8am. At breakfast the service was rather slow today. I had muesli, orange juice, scrambled eggs and pale toast. Why are hotel toasters so slow? We discussed plans for today and asked the concierge for advice about boat trips with dinner. He offered to book us on the Bateau Mouche.

The high altar with sculptures of Mary and angels

It was quite sunny when we set off to walk to the Madeleine, calling at the post office. I was amazed to get served straight away when I bought stamps for my postcards. Then we arrived at the church of Mary Magdalene and read the information about how and when it was built. It was designed in 1754 in the style of a Greek temple with Corinthian columns. We admired all the side altars and sculptures, the carved pulpit and the high altar. The mosaics and frescoes in the apse and the bronze doors depicting the Ten Commandments were also very good. I took photos inside and out.

The Opera stage being set up

Then we walked a few streets to the Opera Garnier which we saw illuminated last night. We paid to go inside and saw the Grand Staircase, the museum and library and the auditorium with the Chagall ceiling. The stage crew were setting up a scene on the stage and we could also see the stalls and boxes. There was a decorative long gallery with lavish chandeliers and paintings.

The Opera ceiling was beautifully decorated

Then we decided against the nearby Cafe de la Pays in favour of a cheaper bar for lunch. We both had cheeseburgers and large beers. Then we came back to the hotel to rest. The concierge had booked us onto the Bateau Mouche dinner boat this evening.


After reading, dozing and watching Pointless, we got ready for dinner and set out by metro for the Pont de l'Alma.

The Eiffel Tower was floodlit

We found our Bateau Mouche and were offered a welcome glass of champagne. Then we were shown to our table for two near the front on the port side. We had a good view of all the famous bridges on the two hour cruise up and down the Seine, past the Ile de la Cite and all the main central landmarks.

There was a three course dinner of our choice, plus cheese and a bottle of St. Emilion included. And a spectacular sunset!

Monday 5 April, Easter Monday

Spring flowers in bloom in Monet's garden

Up early for our trip to Giverny and Monet's garden. We walked to Concorde and took metro line 12 to Gare St Lazare. Our train to Rouen left at 10.34, and when the platform was announced, there was a stampede for seats. We got two good seats by the window. We travelled along by the Seine, stopping once before we reached the small town of Vernon.

The water gardens had many pathways and small bridges

There we got a coach to Giverny. It took about 10 minutes. At the ticket office we queued for nearly an hour. We first saw the Jardin Clos Normand which boasted spring flowers such as hyacinths, pansies and daffodils. A Chinese boy interviewed me for TV but I couldn't tell him much.

Inside Monet's house were many paintings which inspired him

Then we crossed underground to the water gardens and walked round all the paths several times. The was an arched bridge where people wanted a photo taken, and two straight bridges, all new since Monet's time: he died in 1926.

Then we visited Monet's house and saw all the rooms full of paintings from his collection. We had lunch in a nice tea room where we got open sandwiches.

We got the coach back to Vernon and waited for the 16.52 train to Paris which was full.

In the evening we walked to Drouant, a very nice restaurant near the Opera where we enjoyed a 3 course dinner.

Easter Sunday 5 April, Paques

The Arc du Carrousel outside the Louvre

Rather a frustrating day. It was sunny but still cold. After breakfast, we walked to the Louvre and admired the Arc du Carrousel in the sun. We went underground to get tickets for the Louvre but the queue was huge, so we gave up.

Instead we went along to the Ile de la Cite to see Notre Dame. Also very crowded on Easter Sunday. We admired the famous church from outside, saw a procession and strolled in the gardens.

We crossed over from the Ile to the Rue St Germain and had a coffee. Then we took a metro to Sevres Babylone and had lunch there - omelette and salad.

Notre Dame was crowded with visitors on Easter Sunday

In the afternoon we took another metro to Gare St Lazare where we got train tickets to Giverny for tomorrow. Then we returned to the hotel for a rest, calling in at W.H.Smith's for some books and a Guardian.



Tonight we have a dinner booking for L'Ardoise, round the corner from our hotel.

Gare St. Lazare is virtually unchanged since Monet's day

Beforehand we had a cocktail at the hotel, after descending from the sixth floor via the stairs, as the lift was out of order.

The restaurant was quite chaotic as they had overbooked but the three course meal was very nice. I had pate, lamb with celeriac and chocolate mousse. We had Beaujolais with the meal.

Saturday 4 April

The Grande Arche at La Defense was impressive

Another night spent tossing and turning and reading Road Rage by Ruth Rendell. We had a nice breakfast at the hotel again. A cold, dull day again and also rather wet.


We took metro no. 1 to La Defense to see the Grande Arche. Unfortunately the lift to the top was not working so we didn't get the anticipated view. We strolled round the shops there and I bought a top in C&A.

The church of Les Invalides with its golden dome

Then we went back to Concorde and crossed the Seine to see Les Invalides. We saw a crowd of people waiting outside the National Assembly building. First we had lunch in the museum cafe, and then we visited the hotel and church where Napoleon's tomb now lies, under the golden dome of Louis XIV. Quite impressive. We also had a quick look at the Army Museum and the gardens.

Napoleon was reburied in 1840 in a cocoon of coffins

Back to the hotel to rest before heading to the Latin quarter for dinner and a jazz club in the evening.


The no. 4 metro line wasn't running so we walked across the river to the Latin Quarter. We waled round the pedestrian area and had dinner at a French restaurant, Navigator, before going to Caveau de la Huchette. We heard the Al Copley trio playing. It was a very crowded place with lots of older people on the dance floor. We stayed for about an hour.

Good Friday 3 April, Vendredi Saint

The main hall of the Musee d'Orsay from the 2nd floor balcony

Raining and cool again today. Our shower doesn't have a stand so we had a bath in the very small narrow bath. Quite a nice breakfast. Then we walked through the Tuileries Gardens and across the Pont Solferino to the Musee d'Orsay.

Van Gogh had many paintings exhibited here

Even with our advance tickets, we had to queue for a while before going through security and coat check. Once inside though, we were free to take photos and go everywhere. We started with the sculpture hall and the French art from 1848 onwards. There was lots to cover on the ground floor, and the whole museum has been reorganised since our last visit.

Then we investigated the museum restaurant and went for an early lunch. Service was slow but we enjoyed our fish dishes and white Bordeaux when it arrived. Then we chose creme caramel for dessert.

After lunch we saw the post-Impressionists on the second floor, including many works of Van Gogh, before climbing the stairs to the 5th floor for all the wonderful Impressionist works: Manet, Renoir, Degas and many others. I liked all the Monets and we plan to go to his garden at Giverny on Monday.

Manet's Dejeuner sur l'Herbe was shocking in 1863

Then we retraced our steps to the hotel, stopping for hot chocolate and coffee. It was raining again.


In the evening we walked along to Rue St Roch where we had seen a restaurant with good reviews, but it was full. So we crossed over to a Japanese place, Matsuka, where we ordered the sushi menu and a bottle of Muscadet, which we can't get in Switzerland.

Thursday 2 April, Jeudi Saint

Pink magnolias in bloom everywhere

We arrived at Paris Gare de Lyon after a smooth journey by TGV from Zurich. We bought two Cartes Visites for the metro and took line 1 to Tuileries. It was a short walk  to our hotel, Royal Saint Honore. The receptionist remembered our dinner booking for Sunday and Monday and asked about the jazz club.

Our room has a low ceiling on my side so I expect I'll be banging my head before long.

We went out to explore the local area around the Tuileries, the Palais Royale and the Louvre. We recognised some of the restaurants from an earlier visit. We went into the gardens of the Palais and saw the magnolias in bloom. Then we went for a glass of red wine at the bar Valois. Very nice Beaume de Venise.

The Tuileries Gardens looking rather bleak

We walked down to the River Seine and saw the Pont Neuf and the river boats. We headed back towards the road to our hotel and stopped for dinner at Le Nemour. We had a very tasty Cassoulet au Confit de Canard with another glass of red wine, this time a Cote du Rhone.

Then back to the hotel for a coffee in the bar before watching Masterchef in our room.

One day to go

It's raining and even snowing a bit in Switzerland. The forecast for Paris is milder but I think we should take boots and umbrellas in any case.

We are travelling by TGV from Zurich to Paris Gare de Lyon and then plan to buy metro tickets for the five days we will spend there. We are staying for 6 nights at the Hotel Royal St. Honore near the Tuileries Gardens. The hotel has booked dinner for us on Easter Sunday and Monday evenings, and we have details of several jazz clubs and hope to visit one.

We also plan to visit Monet's Garden at Giverny, at long last! A train goes from Gare St. Lazare quite frequently. We have booked entry tickets to the Musee d'Orsay for any day. We might also visit the Louvre, Notre Dame, Invalides and other iconic sights.